Ryanair: A SCREAMIN’ Deal!

Ryanair is a cheap, no-frills European airline that I have a special love affair with. Yes, the seats are cramped, the bright yellow seat covers are over-the-top, and the “free-seating” makes for long, pushy lines of impatient people. BUT…it is such a frugal way to travel throughout Europe, you cannot help but smile as you deal with an overall lack of customer service and a no-frills flying experience. The way they make their money is by charging high prices for luggage check-in, food on the plane, ground transportation to/from the major cities, and there is a slight possibility the Irish-based airline will begin charging to use the loo, water-closet, bathroom, toilet or whatever you like to call it. During this three-week sojourn around Europe, I am flying Ryanair.

Here is what I paid (including one bag check-in):

Glasgow, Scotland to Oslo, Norway= $36

Oslo, Norway to Bologna, Italy=$28

Venice, Italy to Paris, France= $24

My Dear Oslo…I will be back!

When I arrived in Oslo and hopped on the t-bane subway, I felt like I had come home. The Norwegian chatter, familiar sights, and smell of waffles in the air brought on a feeling of comfort that you only get when you have lived (and connected with) the local culture and surroundings. Having lived in six unique geographic locales, I know what it feels like to connect (or not) with where you live. There is a theory called, "place attachment" which describes the bonding of people to places as an interplay of emotion, cognition, and behavior. Oslo is one of those cities I will always feel attached to; perhaps it is my connection with the university, friends, the amazing hiking trails surrounding the city, the memories, and the active, healthy lifestyle of the Norwegians, or maybe it is all of the above.

Even though it was a quick 3-day trip in Oslo, I managed to get a lot done, both business and pleasure. I gave a presentation to the new students in the Master's programme that I graduated from, as a way to welcome them to the program and give them tips about the 2-year adventure they are about to embark on. I also had a planning (and laughing) meeting with the group I work with on the Hedda blog. Of course, the best part was hanging out with all of my dear friends who still live in Oslo. Friendships always make you feel more connected to a place. Plus, friends feed you well...Kristi treated me like American royalty (if there is such a thing) by making American-style pancakes and mexican food. YUM!

Luckily, I also had one sunny, blue-sky day that allowed for a grand tour of my favorite outdoor spots in Oslo including a boat trip to Bygdoy for some hiking, Vigelands park, and Aker Brygge. I ate a waffle everyday and even bought a waffle iron to help curb my Norwegian waffle obsession. Now off to Italy!

NOTE: The first photo displays my friend, Shane, wearing TIGHT pants. This is the HOT Euro trend for men. To all the American dudes reading this...forget the baggy pants, it is time to go TIGHT!

Edinburgh with Fish n Chips & Kilts!

Edinburgh is a hoppin’ city! I would love to go back and spend more than just 14 hours there. We just so happened to be there for the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Wow, apparently this is the largest arts festivals in the world...or at least that is what is proclaimed. Since we had such a short period of time to enjoy Edinburgh, Ali and I declared it our own festival, the last-night-in-Scotland-festival, as we clogged our arteries by eating fish-n-chips, drank pints, and asked the local Scots what they had under their kilts. As the nightlife raged on in the center of Edinburgh, we rolled back to the hostel, Budget Backpackers, put in our earplugs, and I set my alarm for 6:30 a.m. (to catch the morning train to Glasgow). And would you believe it...free wifi on the train...awesome. Off to Oslo!

St. Andrews, Scotland...the Birthplace of GOLF!

After the hiking trip got rained out, we sojourned to St Andrews, the birthplace of golf and home to the oldest University in Scotland, University of St Andrews. We made the mistake of arriving between the hours of 4-6 p.m., when the hostel is closed. (One of the many joys of backpacking is adhering to the hostel rules and closing times.) So, we checked out the town center, with luggage and all. I am not much of a golfer, but even I was impressed with the pristine “old course” snuggled up against the coastline. This is one of the best golf courses in the world and people travel from all over just to smack one of those little white balls across the meticulous greens. They pay a pretty penny to do so…it costs $220/18 holes. We shared a bunkroom in the local hostel, St Andrews Hostel, with a retired judge from Missouri who skimped on his accommodation (only $20/night) to play the world-famous course.


While Ali and I were impressed by the beauty of the golf course, we were much more excited to visit the University and the ruins. (Yes, we are both higher education nerds.) The University of St Andrews was founded in 1413. The campus is not comparable to the numerous spires of Oxford or the Gothic feel of the University of Bologna, but it has a humble medeival feel to it and it is right next to the ocean.

Of course we got a kick out of a few street signs...too.

Walking the Scottish Countryside...with Rain!

I met my dear friend, Ali (who currently lives in Spain), in Birmingham, UK and we jumped on a train to Scotland. We were destined for Angus, Scotland where we embarked on a 3-day walking adventure in the countryside.

DAY 1: The first day was lovely with a little bit of drizzle and a load of wildlife: black slugs, sheep, horses, black beetles, purple heather, wildflowers, and pesky flies. We walked approximately 8.5 miles and arrived at the remote and incredible Prosen Hostel. The leather couch, wood-fire stove, free internet, and hot tea felt like we were staying in heaven. We had the place to ourselves, so we spread out and enjoyed a wine-infused evening.

DAY 2: Day two was not as successful, yet our humor got us through it. After about two hours of walking we thought we had missed a turn, so we turned back around. That was a big mistake! As we walked on the exposed hill, the rain and wind became severe. Turning around meant we were walking into the rain and wind...the wettness and chill seeped deep into our bones. We decided to head back to the comforts of the hostel...ah! Glentrek, who helped us set up the walking tour, sent Mike (a 17 year old) to pick us up and drop us at the next hostel.

DAY 3: Day three was an absolute downpour, so instead of walking we relaxed, ate a scrumptious Scottish breakfast, read, ate scones, and enjoyed the inner beauty of the traditional Scottish inn, Glen Cova Hotel. In the afternoon, we headed off to St. Andrews.

Ciao UGA Students! Ciao Trinity College!

On Friday, August 14 at 4:30 a.m., the 6-week UGA summer program at Oxford came to an end as the students boarded a coach destined for Gatwick airport. I collected their keys, bid them farewell, and then went back to bed for a few hours before meeting my faculty don. Now I am packing up to travel for the next three weeks before the students arrive for the fall semester on September 10.

During the summer program 20 of the students lived in the UGA house, while the other 30 lived in Trinity College. Oxford has 38 independently self-goverened colleges of which students belong to one. For the summer program, UGA affiliates with Trinity College, whereas in the fall semester UGA affiliates with Keble College. Therefore, I thought it was only appropriate to share with you the beauty of Trinity College during the summer 2009 UGA program at Oxford:

Cream Tea for Two, Please!

In England, afternoon tea is a tradition practiced by many. On the last day of the summer program, my fellow graduate resident, Elizabeth, and I celebrated with cream tea. A local restaurant and tea house, The Rose, is known for its delicious scones and afternoon tea. Here is what we ordered:

The Rose's Classic Cream Tea £5.85
A pot of tea of your choice, served with two freshly baked scones. These come with the the best clotted cream we have come across, surprisingly coming from the Cotswolds rather than Cornwall. Finally there is a pot of strawberry jam that's to die for, positively bursting with fruit.

The clotted cream is rather delicious...not too sugary just creamy with a subtle sweetness. As we sat eating our scones and drinking our loose-leaf tea we reflected on the crazy six weeks we experienced, the highs and the lows. Elizabeth heads back to Georgia tomorrow, whereas I embark on a three week sojourn before the next group of UGA students arrive for the fall semester:

August 17-22 Scotland (walking the countryside)

August 22-25 Oslo

August 25-September 5 Italy (Bologna, Verona, Dolomites, Venice)

September 5-September 9 Paris

High Table Dinners!

For the past 6 weeks, every Monday evening we donned our Sunday's best. At 6:30 p.m. high heels, ties, and posh summer dresses decorated Danson Hall as we began the evening with a lecture on topics ranging from the art of armor to the history of Oxford. A refreshing Pimm's reception followed with mint leaves and orange slices dancing in the drinks, as students and faculty schmoozed on the green lawns of Trinity College.At 8 p.m. we paraded to the dining hall where candelabras dressed the meticulously-decorated dinner tables. A high table proudly stood, raised at the front of the dining hall, where faculty dons, program staff (including us graduate residents), and a few select students dined. Every meal began with a banging of the gavel signaling everyone to stand for grace. One of us lucky graduate residents stumbled (albeit gracefully) through the grace recited in Latin...upon which dinner was served. The highlight of sitting at the high table was the endless glasses of wine and the rose water that made its way around the table after dinner. Dipping your napkin in the rose water, to gently refresh the nape of your neck before dessert, was the brunt of many jokes...yet still quite special.

Advertising Gone Terribly Wrong!

I saw this advertisement behind the bar at an English pub... More than just "salted peanuts" for sale; nothing like exploiting a woman's body to make a pound. Ouch!

"Two Pence for Every Barren Cow..."

During our weekend excursion one of the students was unable to hike, so I stayed behind and we went on a flat-land excursion. During our walk, we discovered the 1,500 year-old Clodock church. As we walked through the creaky wooden gates into the graveyard with tombstones protruding from the earth, a sweet little church lady welcomed us as she tended to pesky weeds. With her thick rural-Welsh accent she invited us inside the church. The church was fascinating with the old tithe ("two pence for every barren cow") scrolled on the wall and chipped paint giving way to a lovely cherub painting. The little lady explained that the antiquated and worn pews were the original pews. It always amazes me when I experience old architecture that is still standing and will continue to stand. I do love that aspect of Europe and the UK.

Apparently, this church does not get many foreigner visitors, because when we told her where we were from she insisted that we sign the guestbook.

Walking with the Sheep!

This past weekend I chaperoned a group of 11 students on an excursion led by a young Economics faculty don, Simon, from Tasmania (that little island off the coast of Australia). Simon loves to "walk" (in my world this term is synonymous to "hike") and he introduced us to a tiny little town, Longtown, in Herefordshire, a rural area on the England/Wales border. We stayed in a quintessential English pub, The Crown Inn, built in 1751. The lodging rooms were located on the second floor, which made for an easy walk (or stumble) after a night of tasting the locally-brewed cider. During the day we hiked the black mountains, up sheep-infused rolling hills, amid wildflowers, and surrounded by amazing vistas of the countryside.

Even though there was much eye-candy to be had, looking down became important as it was only too often that you might step in a steamy pile of sheep droppings.

We feasted on lamb by night and traditional English breakfasts (complete with baked beans, white toast, tomatoes, ham, bangers, and fried eggs) in the morning. Besides hiking, the other highlight for me was the unique little pub where we ate lunch on Sunday. The Bull's Head Craswall was the epitome of an old-style English pub: peeling wallpaper and exposed plaster on the walls, low ceilings, and the farmhouse ciders were drawn from the cast. Hanging on the wall, next to the bar, a sheet of paper displayed the local farms where all of the food and drinks came from. Now this is what I call...keepin' it local!